Scandinavian Adventure: Day 14

Our last full day in Scandinavia! We had another lavish breakfast followed by a walking tour with Nina through the historic part of Bergen. It was interesting, but in my opinion Bergen doesn’t quite have the vibe that our other city stops have had.

We did some more exploring on our own along with some shopping. Everything is expensive in Norway! Our lunch was a shared sandwich and the Norwegian version of a cinnamon roll. I vote for the Swedish cinnamon roll as the best of Scandinavia. 🙂

After lunch, we took a funicular up to an incredible viewing spot of the entire city. Sunny days are rare in Bergen and we felt very fortunate to see it in the sun! There were several hiking paths from there, but we only had time for a short one around a small lake.

View of Bergen

Our tour guide told us about some bracelets made by Sami people that are sold in one of the shops and we had looked at them earlier in the day. I decided that I really wanted one so we went back to that shop to buy one. They are made of braided reindeer leather and silver string with a whalebone ‘clasp’. Much nicer souvenir than a silly t-shirt or hat!

Our tour group gathered for one more dinner together and to say our thanks and goodbyes to Nina. Dick and I both chose lamb and risotto for the meal and it was pretty disappointing. Oh well. It was nice to reminisce about the tour with everyone and just be thankful for everything we experienced together. We didn’t say a lot of good byes to people in our group because we expected to see them at breakfast. That didn’t happen, though. 😕 We will have to follow up by email at some point. We met some really nice folks and I hope we can keep in touch with some of them. Several couples live relatively close by in CT and RI.

What a great adventure we’ve had! I highly recommend travel in Scandinavia. It’s beautiful, historically and culturally interesting, genuinely kind people, better food than you might expect and just kind of magical!❤️

The next leg of our journey will be four days in the Netherlands visiting family and friends – kind of a whirlwind trip though the country with six different stops. We’re excited to be back in our second home again!

Scandinavian Adventure: Day 13

It was a crisp morning in the mountains! But another beautiful day. We had a big breakfast buffet and then made sandwiches to have for a picnic later. Since we had to take an alternate route, we were in a time crunch and couldn’t make as many stops.

We did stop for a couple of photo ops and lunch at a rest area. The scenery continued to be incredible until we had to go through a 25 km tunnel (!) and a series of other tunnels.

Our destination was a fjord cruise in Flam and we made it there just in time to board. There was a huge MSC cruise ship in the port and it dwarfed the fjord boat. Anyway, I have been looking forward to this cruise for a long time and it did not disappoint. We stood out on the deck for most of the two hour trip and we were awestruck at the beauty around us. Wow!!!

After the cruise, we headed to Bergen and arrived there around 8:30. We dropped our stuff at the hotel and went to find dinner. We were hungry and tired after a long travel day!

Scandinavian Adventure: Day 12

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Norway is spectacular!!! We took a scenic route through the countryside into the mountains today and it was one beautiful vista after another on a sunny day.

Our first stop was a rest break at a place that’s apparently well known for their fresh rolls. We had some with chocolate chips in them and we thought they were just okay. They sold trucker hats and t-shirts with their red and yellow logo on them (pretty ugly). I’m kinda sorry we didn’t take any photos of this place. Oh well!

Our main event for today was at Maihaugen, an open air museum with buildings from the 13th to the 20th century. We had an awesome guide who was quite theatrical (in a good historical way) and entertaining. She took us through the amazing stave church, the school house and some of the other oldest buildings. Then we were free to roam though the rest of the sections on our own. Dick and I ended up separating at one point and I was able to have some quiet time on my own.

Boys on the left and girls on the right

The next stop on this long journey was a cheese factory where we learned about the unique Norwegian brown cheese. We had a taste test and it was pretty good! I just have to get past the look of it. 😋 It helps that they put the cheese in decorative molds.

We passed through Lum where there is another beautiful stave church and we had a short rest stop to take pictures. While we were there, the tour guide got a message that there was a rock slide blocking our route just past the inn where we were spending the night. So for the rest of the trip, our tour guide and driver began planning an alternate route for the next day.

Stave Church in Lum

We could see the barrier across the road when we arrived and realized how fortunate we were that our lodging was on the right side! Speaking of our lodging . . . this was the most unique place of our entire tour. There were about 8 small traditional Norwegian buildings in addition to the main building. We were assigned buildings and room numbers and handed these heavy ginormous keys. They kind of looked like the size of Hobbit houses. We had to duck through the first doorway.

I guess our room was the stable? There was a harness hanging by the door 🙂

There was a hiking trail behind the buildings and we followed it until it got too steep. One of our tour friends joined us. We saw lots of blueberries and mushrooms.

The day ended with a four course meal featuring mushroom soup, deer pate, veal and a sort of ice cream sandwich. That may not sound so great, but it was expertly prepared and absolutely delicious!

I thought I might try a bath before bed , but realized that it would take a very long time to fill this tub 😂

Scandinavian Adventure: Day 11

The breakfast buffet at our hotel was a huge selection of typical breakfast food plus many meats, salads, roasted vegetables and more. A feast! I can’t stomach most of this kind of food at 7am, though. 😛

It was another beautiful day! We took a ferry to the “museum island” and there were more great views on the way. We went to the Fram Museum that features the Norwegian polar expeditions. There was a lot to see here with some immersive experiences. We focused our time on the Nansen Photograph exhibit which feature’s the incredibly extensive archive of photos and diary entries from the three-year expedition led by Johan Nansen.

A ferry ride back to the city center got us back in time to walk to the Opera House for a behind the scenes tour. This tour was fascinating! The design of the building itself is a marvel. We were able to see the costume shop, a quick peek of a ballet rehearsal, backstage of one of the stages and a few minutes of a rehearsal for a new opera. After the tour, we walked on the sloping roof of the opera house and sat for a bit to take in the view.

Oslo Opera House

Our next plan was to meet up with some tour friends to do a walk that Rick Steves describes in his guide. The ‘trail’ goes by some churches, a historic cemetery and then along the Akers River, which has rapids and a waterfall and a couple of cute bridges that we zigzagged across. Our friends were good sports for letting us figure out the way and get turned around in a cemetery. 🙂

In the middle of this walk there is a food hall which turned out to be more of a market. We did find a cafe for a quick coffee break.

Just before we reached our hotel, we passed a protest supporting the Ukraine in the park by the parliament building. We were told that people gather there everyday as a reminder that the war continues.

A rest at the hotel was much needed since were on the go all day. We decided to just grab some hotdogs at a 7-Eleven for dinner and we ate them in the park while watching people on the pedestrian street.

Dick wanted to go to one more museum, but he went alone because I had had enough! It turned out that he wasn’t able to get in the museum because our Oslo passes had expired. 😋

Curious siting: a couple swinging on a swing hanging from an overpass 🤷🏻‍♀️

Scandinavian Adventure: Day 10

It was a comfortable sleep on the boat, but it took me a minute to get my sea legs when I woke up and I had a bit of motion sickness. 🤢 I managed to get it together enough to have a small breakfast and go up to the top deck to take in the amazing view of the Oslo fjord. Gorgeous in full sun!

We met up with a local guide when we came off the ferry and did a bus/walking tour of Oslo. It was a pretty comprehensive introduction to the city with stops along the harbor, the fortress, city hall, National Theatre and more.

One of the wood reliefs at Oslo City Hall

After we checked into our hotel, we had the afternoon free to explore. We decided to walk to the Munch Museum and we spent over two hours there. I now have a much better understanding and appreciation for his art (I’m not a fan of his most famous piece – The Scream).

Edvard Munch self-portrait

Then we went to the city library, which is very cool inside and out. It’s a modern building with an exterior that kind of looks like book stacks and an interior that is open to all the floors looking up with lots of interesting artistic elements. It’s such an inviting space and I loved it!

Oslo Public Library

The evening was planned with a group tour to the Vigeland sculpture park and a traditional Norwegian dinner. Vigeland is an amazing place and I’m now a big fan of this art. The park is huge and contains over four hundred sculptures all designed by Gustav Vigeland.

One of my favorites

Our choices for dinner was either fish or reindeer. We both chose the reindeer dish – Dick loved it and I thought it was okay. I’m glad I tried it, but I don’t think I would order it if given the option again. The restaurant had decor that represented Oslo’s history.

After dinner with opted to take a stroll with our guide through a modern part of the city. It was such a lovely evening walking along the waterside with lights coming on, fun architecture to look at and a nice view looking back at the city.

Lots of interesting architecture in Oslo!

Scandinavian Adventure: Day 9

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Back across on the ferry and back to Copenhagen this morning. One there, we made a lunch stop for about an hour. Dick and I went to the “food stalls” that have various food vendors with both prepared and fresh foods. We had just a little time to grab a coffee to go with our pastry dessert and take it to the botanical garden to relax on the lawn.

The bus made a quick stop at the Little Mermaid statue and then went on to board another ferry. This is an overnight ferry from Copenhagen to Oslo. After we boarded, we had to kill a little time before our rooms were ready and the boat left the harbor. So we had a drink with our tour guide and some of our new friends. 🍻

Our room was on the lower deck right in the middle of the ship. We had enough time to get situated and then met our tour group in the wine bar for a happy hour. We went up to the top deck after that to enjoy the view and fresh sea air. It was a lovely evening! We also did a pass through the duty-free shop and got a few goodies.😉

Dick had made reservations at one of the restaurants, but we weren’t that hungry and decided to just get a pizza. We were seated right away (just outside the main area), but had to wait awhile to place an order. We got a couple of starters and ordered a small pizza to share. The starters came out pretty quickly, but then we waited for nearly an hour before the restaurant manager noticed that our order had not been “printed out”. I had been getting antsy and was close to going in to ask what was going on, but I think it was good that I didn’t -the manager comped our meal because we had been so patient! 😄

Dick went back to the upper deck to see the stars (mixed review because of the deck lights) and I went to bed. Next stop – Oslo!

Scandinavian Adventure: Day 8

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With our morning free, we wanted to get out on bikes to explore the island. Our inn host (Adam) was no where to be seen when we went to get the bikes with some of our tour friends. He eventually appeared from a nearby building and confessed that he had fallen asleep 😋 He quickly got us all fixed up with bikes and helmets and gave us a route recommendation that fit our timeframe. We followed a bike path along the water, some farms and then into a small town.

Adam told us to look for an old burial mound that had been excavated and we found it in the middle of a corn field. We biked a little further, but then realized we needed to turn around and get back for our lunch tour.

We took the bus through some scenery on the island and stopped in a village to see a church and have a prepared Smørrebrød at nice little restaurant. Yum!

After lunch, we made a brief stop at some cliffs with a gorgeous view. There were steps that we took down to the sea.

That view!

Back in town, we had a short rest then took a stroll through the streets to look in some of the shops. Then back on the bikes to go to the beach!

Stepping into the Baltic Sea

We biked by some cute little beach huts and out to the tip of the peninsula. There was a strong headwind coming back so we detoured down a path that brought us back into town and then walked the bikes in the cobbled streets.

Our inn mates invited us for another wine happy hour in the back garden and we had a nice relaxing chat. Another American couple coming off a VBT tour joined us for a little while.

The walk to dinner was VERY windy and a bit chilly along the harbor. We had to eat outside, but cozy blankets make it tolerable.

Curious siting: a topless swimmer at the beach. Dick didn’t even notice her 🤣 We were told that bathing suits were optional in Denmark and that shouldn’t keep us from going in for a swim 😀 No pic for this one!

Scandinavian Adventure: Day 7

The tour hit the road again today and our first destination was Roskilde to visit a Viking Ship Museum and a cathedral. The ship museum houses 5 Viking ships that were excavated from the sea near Roskilde. There are also replicas of the ships outside in the harbor. It’s amazing to realize that these small ships were built well enough around 1000 AD to sail the high seas of the Baltic, North Sea and even the Atlantic.

Replica of a Viking boat. This boat was sailed to Ireland to replicate a trip made by Vikings

We walked from the museum into town to get lunch. We didn’t have a lot of time so Dick and I decided to get some lunch items at the grocery store and we ate in the square next to the cathedral. The streak of fantastic weather continues! The cathedral is where the kings and queens of Denmark are buried (most of them) and a sepulcher has already been designed for a space there.

The nave of Roskilde Cathedral

The next destination was a ferry that took us to the island of Ærø. It was a beautiful day to be on the water. After about an hour, the bus rolled off the ferry and we got off to take our luggage into town. We split into smaller groups to stay at two inns. Six of us stayed at an inn that includes a movie theatre in the bottom floor, a cafe in the back and a bike rental also in the back. The owner is British and has travelled all over the world. The decor is very eclectic and there are a lot of interesting photos, paintings and objects throughout the building. I loved it!

Some of the decor at our inn

The group met up again for a tour given by a local who told us how this island has come back to life over the past ten years. His wife started a thriving wedding business that’s been written about by major newspapers and has become quite famous. It’s prospered because it’s relatively easy to be legally married in Denmark and the island is so pretty and relatively easy to get to. They also renovated a space for a cafe that was volunteer run for three years. Other businesses have sprung up and tourism has become a major part of the local economy.

A street in
Ærøskøbing

One of the restaurants prepared a traditional Danish holiday meal for us which consisted of roast pork, warm cabbage, potatoes and pickles followed by a dessert of berry compote with cream. So good!

Scandinavian Adventure: Day 6

We are really getting lucky with weather this week! It was a cloudless sunny, warm day in Copenhagen. Our day started with a tour with a local guide (Cathy) who is American, but had lived in Denmark for many years and is a Danish citizen.

Just after our tour started, Cathy noticed some motorcycle police and remarked that it was rare to see them two by two. As we walked on, she exclaimed that the royal yacht was in port and that she had never seen it that close. She quickly discerned that the queen must be coming or going. So we started walking quickly to get closer. Cathy was clearly on a mission! Her microphone went off and when I motioned to her that it was off (and she kept talking), she shooed me away. I then realized that she was doing a video commentary about the arrival of the queen’s yacht. Soooooo. We got pretty close and could see that someone was taking a dachshund onboard – the queen’s dog. Then the royal chauffeur appeared and we could see the royal cars lined up right at the gangplank. There were maybe fifty people gathered around to see the queen. Members of the crew (maybe the navy?) were moving around, but there was not a lot of security presence. Her lady in waiting came out and waited by the car and then – there was the queen! She came down the gangplank while doing a little wave and got right into her car. It was pretty exciting! And even more exciting because Nina and Cathy were so excited for this opportunity to show off their queen during a routine tour! [Let’s just count this as today’s CURIOUS siting!!!]

The rest of the tour was kind of anticlimactic and since we had been in Copenhagen before and knew some of the history and buildings, it wasn’t that compelling. When we got to the palace square, there was another interesting and unexpected sighting. The ceremonial guards came out in two small groups and did some kind of formation. It wasn’t the changing of the guard and Cathy didn’t seem to know what they were doing.

We had the rest of the day free to do whatever we wanted. Nina had pointed out a boat along the harbor that served fish lunch so we headed there. It such a nice day to be outside! From there we went to Rosenborg Castle where the Crown Jewels are kept. The main part of the castle didn’t have a lot of English captions so we browsed through that pretty quickly. There was an area with a very large ivory collection that belonged to the royals – some were actually made by royalty. Apparently ivory carving was a royal pastime.

Rosenborg Castle

We had a nice coffee break in the castle gardens and then stopped back at the hotel for a phone charge. We ran into a couple from our group and ended up having a glass of wine with them in the courtyard.

Our next planned stop was the Royal Library. This library has a very modern addition on the waterfront which connects to the original old library. Amazing architecture! The old card catalogs are just outside the old part and they contain handwritten catalog cards – incredible! We couldn’t go into the old reading room, but we could peek in the windows to see it. It’s not as grans as the LoC and looks more like the Boston Public Library’s reading room, which I love.

I can’t even fathom the effort it took to migrate all of this to digital!

After the Royal Library, we took a walk to city hall, but it was closed. So we decided to get dinner at a place called Restaurant Tight. We ordered some starters and they were delicious. The idea was to save room for “The Best Cheesecake” which was just down the street. It was a yummy! There is always a nice stroll to end the day and this one was a beauty. It will be difficult to leave Copenhagen behind, but we will get one more chance to see it before this tour ends.

Scandinavian Adventure: Day 5

Kalmar Castle was our morning destination. It was a gorgeous sunny, cool day for the backdrop of our adventure. Our tour was led by a local guide in historic dress. The interior of the castle is partially as it was or as it has been restored to be similar to what it was. My favorite room was the kings receiving room where the walls are made of wood inlayed panels with various scenes and symbols. Much of this had to be restored at some point because grain was stored there in the 18th century.

Kalmar Castle

We got back on the bus to travel to Copenhagen. The tour guide put together a picnic lunch, which we ate at a nice rest area along the way. After we finished lunch, we played a name game to further our progress in getting to know everyone in our tour group. There is a guy in the group who thinks he’s pretty funny (he also laughs loudly) and I can tell te guide is getting a little tired of him already.

Picnic

The upper floor of the castle had exhibit space and there was a really cool exhibit on a contemporary Swedish photojournalist. Most of the captions were in Swedish, though. 😕

There was another quick pitstop before we left Sweden and then we finally reached Copenhagen. Our hotel is in one of the most picturesque sections of the city! Very cool.

Our guide is originally from Copenhagen and clearly loves to talk about the city. She gave us an introduction as we strolled to around the area and headed to a restaurant for a group dinner. A man dressed as Hans Christian Andersen met us there and he told us about ‘himself’ and recite the story of The Little Mermaid. His talk ended with us all toasting a with a small glass of Snaps (or Schnapps) .

Dick and I had another really interesting conversation with Nina during dinner. We all had ice cream on the way back to the hotel and then we chatted with our bus driver as we walked. He’s Norwegian, but lives in Sweden.

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