London – last hours

The hotel provided a basic daily breakfast in a cramped room, but we chose to have a “full English breakfast” on our last day. We had been passing by several cafes coming and going from the Underground, so we stopped at one of those. We all ordered the full breakfast and when the waiter asked if it was one breakfast for all of us, we clarified that we each wanted our own breakfast. That was apparently still not clear to this guy who’s English was not too good. He brought out a breakfast for me and we waited five min or so for the other breakfast dishes to come out. Nada. Dick had to reorder the other two. We’ve learned to not say, “I want the same.” The wait put us behind schedule, but we moved on. 

The Who Shop was a must see for Kathryn and we were determined to get there before we left London. We made the trek back to Upton Park and the mission was accomplished. Kathryn  walked through the tardis into the TV museum and got some Who goods at the store to take home. I still don’t understand the fanaticism, but it was fun to see her so excited!

Considering the amount of time it took to get through to the Eurostar train on Friday, we were cutting it close to make it to our ride home. We had to take the tube back to our hotel, grab our luggage and walk back to get the tube to the train station. Thankfully, the lines through the check-in were fairly short and the passport check was faster this time. The trip from London to Brussels (373 km) on the Eurostar takes just two hours. Unfortunately, the Belgium train from Brussels to Liege (97 km) took 2.5 hrs on this trip. 

It’s been weird returning from the weekend trips we’ve taken because going home means going to Oirsbeek, NL. And that still doesn’t feel completely like home. It’s difficult to describe; it’s just kind of unsettling. Once I’m back in the daily routine of our expat life, everything is fine and I’m thankful to be here. 

Β London – day 3

The British Museum is huge and we knew we needed a lot of time there. We arrived just as it opened at 10 am and covered Ancient Egypt, Rome, Europe and the clock room before lunch. After lunch, it was the death and dying gallery, which included the Easter Island Moai. We saw the print and calligraphy gallery last. The large ‘cartoon’ by Michelangelo was impressive. 

I’m glad we went to the museum, but it wasn’t my favorite. While we were in the Ancient history sections, I kept thinking about the amount of objects that were removed from their contextual homes during colonialization. The Euopean exhibits contained a lot of jewelry, dishes and coins — not that interesting to me.

The weather was perfect and we lounged outside the museum for awhile to enjoy it. We were asked to participate in a user survey for the museum website redesign while we were there. The researcher was from Batavia, NY.
After a break and change of clothes at the hotel, we had dinner at a Italian restaurant close by. Then it was off to the theater! We saw The Phantom of the Opera at Her Majesty’s Theatre. It was amazing! This was a treat for all of us and Kathryn loved it. We strolled through Trafalgar Square afterwards. It was such a nice evening to be out.

London – day 2

Day 2 was Sunday and we wisely chose to begin the day with choral matins at Westminster Abbey. It was a memorable experience! We were able to sit with the choir and the priests.  The choir and organ sounded amazing from there. This again, was a great way to see the Abbey. The sermon was basically a book review and now I want to read the book – though I can’t seem to find it!

Our next planned stop was The  Who store. After a 25 min tube ride to Upton Park and a walk through a little Middle East, we arrived at closed doors. My bad. I was sure that I double checked the hours when I made the itinerary. Dang! 

So we got back in the tube and got off at Marble Arches to walk to Speakers Corner at Hyde Park. There was a guy speaking about women’s equality or maybe it was about Muslim women’s inequality; a Muslim guy speaking against alcohol and a preacher who was speaking about loving one another (I think). All of them were less than inspiring and seemed to repeat the same thing over and over. That was a quick stop for us!

It was another beautiful day and even though my feet were still suffering, we decided to walk towards Baker St. On the way, we stopped for lunch at Selfridges food court. We ate overpriced sandwiches and then picked up some dessert to go. We strolled through Selfridges and I felt very conspicuous – way under the necessary income level. Ha!

We observed the door of 221B Baker St. – wahoo – and walked on to Regents Park. My feet were killing me at this point! We eventually found a shaded grassy area to eat our desserts and take a load off. 

There was enough time to fit in another activity before dinner and platform 9 3/4 at King’s Cross  was next. First we had to figure out the whole train station situation. We hadn’t realized that there are TWO train stations in the same place. We arrived at St Pancras on Friday  and silly me, I thought the tube station was Kings Cross (it is also). No worries, we got it all straight. The Harry Potter store was thoroughly examined by Kathryn. She left with a sweatshirt and a big smile. 

The Victoria was highly recommended as an authentic British Pub and we loved it! The bangers and mash meal was delicious. Charles Dickens tipped pints there and supposedly did some writing there as well. Cool. 

London – day 1

I’ll throw in a travel tip first – If you’re traveling by Eurostar, check in at least an hour in advance. The trains leave promptly on time and they will not wait for passengers that are checked in, but waiting in line at the passport check. If you miss the train, they’ll book you on the next train. Good to know!

We arrived in London an hour later than planned, but since we were coming in at the end of the day it was fine. Our hotel room in Notting Hill was small and there was no AC, but hotels are expensive right in the city and this would have to do. The first person we met at our hotel was from Salisbury, MA!

We did a walking tour first thing on Saturday after walking around a bit ourselves. I highly recommend Freewalk tours. The guides love their cities and are full of great info. Our guide for this tour was not only knowledgeable, but very adept at getting us the best views of the Changing of the Guard! It was really crowded around the major sites – lots of big tour groups about. We worked our way through St James Park and around the palaces. Shopping of the rich and famous at St James Place and the Piccadilly Gallery were  on the tour as well. 

After finding a little cafe for lunch, we headed to the Tower and London Bridge. It was a hot day (actually pretty tolerable) so we sought some shade along the Thames and had a relaxing break with the Tower behind us and the bridge in front. 

Since the travel and accommodations took up most of our budget, we looked for ways to see London for free. We attended the Evensong service at St. Paul’s Cathedral to see the interior. I think it’s the best way to experience the architecture and the ambiance of this holy place!

I wore the wrong sandals for all the walking we did and had blisters on the bottom of my feet by late afternoon. Ouch. I patched them up as best I could, but needed some relief . We decided to go back to our hotel for a change of shoes and to find a restaurant closeby. 

We got fish & chips takeout and walked to a nearby park. This would be Kensington Park and I guess I was supposed to know that this is a private park. You know, like in the movie Notting Hill?

So we had to do more walking to get to Hyde Park. We plopped on the grass just inside the gates. Fortunately the food was still warm enough and we had a decent dinner. We walked as far as Kensington Palace afterwards and then back to the hotel. My feet got a good soaking!

catching up on this week

We finally got a car last Thursday! This turned out to be a three week long process. We made a verbal agreement to buy the car from an American who is posted at the air base and thought it would be fairly easy to transfer the registration within the organization. There is a drop off/pickup arrangement at the registration office, but you have to drop off on Mon or Wed. I was out of town the first Monday, then Wed didn’t work because the car was making a noise that needed to be checked. The following week, the seller was out on duty on Monday and Dick had to pick up Kathryn on Wed. An appointment for the inspection and registration was made for Thurs., but the car failed inspection. The brake lines had to be replaced and the seller was great about getting it right in the shop for a fix. We were away the third Monday and then the seller was away on that Wed. Following this so far? Dick begged for an appt. on Thursday and they grudgingly agreed to squeeze us in. That morning, the seller picked Dick up at our house, but realized that he didn’t have his documents with him. Ugh. So he had to go back to his place to get them and we crossed our fingers that the registration office would still do some squeezing. We all met at the office an hour later and waited . . . 45 min later, the man let us in. He was a bit grouchy, but he got the job done and we were finally on the road that afternoon. Yay!

Dick took Kathryn to Arnhem on Friday to see where he was born and visit the Open Air Museum. Dick reported that they had a great day; Kathryn reported that Dad had to see everything (sounds like she lost patience). We went to Cologne on Saturday and Dick got to drive on the Audubon. We can get there in about an hour (I won’t tell you the speed, but other cars were passing us so we weren’t the fastest!). Our visit went at a fairly relaxed pace. We did a free walking tour that gave us a nice overview of Cologne past and present. The cathedral deserved a second look (wow, just wow) and then we walked towards the Belgian Quarter, which took a little navigating to find. A bit of shopping and a bit of snacking next and then an authentic (?) German dinner al fresco. Kathryn liked hearing and reading German and she interpreted a little for us.

Sunday was a packed day. After church at the chapel in the morning and a quick lunch break at home, we biked into Brunssum to watch a parade featuring dance troupes from all over the world. Every four years, Brunssum hosts a dance festival that lasts a full week. The parade was slow starting and slow going, but we stayed to watch most of it. Sunday evening we met up with my coworkers to have dinner at a pannekoeken house in Valkenburg. It was good food and good conversation! I’m glad that Kathryn got to meet and interact with these intelligent young ladies. 

Summer seems to have arrived this week. It’s been mostly dry and temps have been in the 20s and 30s. We had to acquire some fans today to keep cool and some insect repellent to keep mosquitoes away since there are no screens on the windows. We also found a great gelato place closeby for cold treats!

the language paradox

I thought I would share some thoughts about the language situation. A couple of them are borne out of experiences over the last few days. We spent the day in Amsterdam yesterday. It’s an amazing city and it was great to be there again and experience some new sights. This time I was struck by the number of tourists and the sound of English being spoken everywhere — in the museums, on the bus, in restaurants and on the street. I was obviously a tourist also, but after experiencing some immersion in Nederlands I have a slightly different viewpoint. We don’t hear English spoken very much in Limburg (outside of work, of course) and we can’t assume that everyone knows how to speak it. This may be weird, but it made Amsterdam seem less authentic not hearing Dutch spoken. 

Dick speaks Dutch and it’s wonderful that he speaks the language of his birth country. It’s been very useful as we’ve transitioned to life here. As I said, English is not readily spoken in our neck of the woods. All the bills, instructions and signs are in Dutch. I’m very thankful that Dick can interpret all of this — I just want to get that straight before I complain. πŸ™‚ Our neighbor may not speak English well and the butcher may not speak English at all, BUT most people who deal with the public speak and understand basic English. Dick loves being able to speak Dutch so much that he’ll address the waiter or the person at the ticket counter or the clerk at the store in Dutch, which affectively leaves me out of the conversation and in the dark. I know that if he addressed them in English, they would reply in English. Sometimes midway through the the conversation, he’ll tell them that his lowly wife speaks only English and I’ll be brought in on the final details. Thanks.

A case in point was our visit to De Haar Castle today. It’s located just outside Utrecht and is one of the most well known castles in Holland. We walk up to the ticket counter and Dick addresses the woman . . . in Dutch. So, of course, she replies in Dutch and I can tell that, like many people, she comments that he’s American and speaks Dutch (yes, we know it’s a novelty). He asks whether there is an English guide . . . while speaking Dutch which, as is typical, confuses the person and then they reply “yes of course.” Swell.

I navigate just fine without knowing the language, but it can be awkward. People in Limburg assume you speak Dutch, which is fair of course. When I’m addressed in Dutch, I have a few moments to figure out whether I should indicate that I don’t understand, say something in English or just nod my head and smile. The head nod and smile has got me through many brief interactions at the store or with a fellow bus rider! At least I know enough Dutch to say “Spreekt u Engels?” (Do you speak English) or “Ik begrip het niet” (I don’t understand). “Sorry?” also works. I really want to learn more Dutch, but so far I’m just picking up a word here and there. I have a difficult time taking correction from Dick, so I’m hestitant to practice in his presence. I plan to take a full course in the fall when the next class is offered at the library. I don’t have high expectations for anything near fluency, but I’d love to be able to read signs and understand more of what I hear . . . and perhaps be able to comment on the weather to the woman sitting next to me on the bus. 

behind the pretty pictures

I could detail our trip to Leiden and Madurodam and it would sound lovely. It was. Leiden is a beautiful city with lots to see. We browsed by the American Pilgrim museum. It was closed, but it’s really just a tiny house and we could look in the windows. It was a short walk from there to the Citadel, a round fortification in the very center of the city. We had a nice coffee break on a barge in the biggest canal. The Molenmuseum de Valk was next, but we tried to visit the botanical gardens at Leiden University on our way. More on that later. The windmill museum was pretty cool and we climbed to the top where there was a great view of Leiden. 

We drove to Madurodam just outside of Den Hag in the afternoon. It’s Holland in miniature with lots of replicas of famous buildings, and classic Dutch sights and sounds. It’s very cool! We made a mental list of things that we want to see in full scale.

Those are the highlights. But is it really all that perfect? How about all the wrong turns and missteps. What about the garbage strewn across the citadel park that we avoided in our photographs? So unlike the Dutch! And then there was that argument about lack of communication as we walked all the way around Leiden University looking for an entrance to the gardens. You see, Dick goes off in a different direction or lags behind without verbalizing his intentions. He’ll come to a conclusion or get an idea in his head, but doesn’t share it with the rest of us. Certain females find this aggravating! What about the voice navigation that won’t shut up, because we can’t figure out how to turn it off. How about traveling with a teenager who is constantly asking, “what are we doing next?” or complaining, “I’m cold”, “I’m hot”, “I’m hungry”, “I’m thirsty.” Walking, lot’s and lot’s of walking = sore feet. The food is usually very good, but sometimes it’s so-so like the Chinese food in Noorwijk. Sometimes we skip a meal and get cranky because we’re hungry! 

I’m not complaining, though. I love to travel and all this stuff is par for the course! I feel so blessed to be here and there and there. I try very hard to savor the moments, record the memories and recall it all later. 

Kathryn and I enjoyed reading this e.e. cummings poem as we sipped lattes in Leiden.

Dutch roots and more

Kathryn arrived on Wednesday and if you’ve been following our story from the beginning, you know that this is the realization of a long fought battle. We’re thrilled that she’s here! As we were planning for this expat adventure, we wanted more than anything to share it with her. Kathryn is half Dutch and though she’s been exposed to some Dutch culture, she has never experienced Holland. She got a tour of our little town on arrival and after acquiring a bike on Thursday, a bike tour of Brunssum, Sittard and environs.

We brought her to Haarlem for a long weekend to explore the area where her grandparents grew up. We drove in on Friday night and stayed at a B&B in the old part of the city. We spent all day Saturday exploring the city. The Grote Markt, Frans Hals Museum, St. Bavo Church and the Corrie ten Boom House were on our to-do list. Dick and I missed the Frans Hals Museum and Corrie ten Boom house during our last trip to NL because they were closed. Frans Hals was much bigger than I expected; it’s full of 17th century Dutch paintings by various artists besides Frans Hals. We enjoyed some Dutch treats at the market — kibbeling and warm stroopwafels. And we listened to a women’s choir sing as we did a quick tour of St. Bavo.

The Corrie ten Boomhuis was quite an experience. I was first introduced to Haarlem and the atrocities of WWII through The Hiding Place, Corrie’s story about her family, how they helped Jews and their fate at the hands of the Nazis. I read the book when I was about 14 yrs old and it had a lasting impact on me. I also read some of Corrie’s other books. The house tour began with 26 people crammed into the living room to listen to the guide’s summary of who the ten Boom family was and what they did. The rest of the tour was a rather rushed walk through of the upper floor where there was an exhibit and then a view of the room where the hiding place was. The guide gathered us all together again in the dining room (crammed in again). It was interesting to see the house, though it is not much like it was in Corrie’s time there (except for the hiding place). The best part of the tour was how the guide related the message that Corrie herself told over and over to audiences around the world throughout her life. There can be hope in suffering, miracles happen, Jesus saves, love and forgiveness are possible because we are loved and forgiven.

After a long walk to our car, we headed to Zandvoort and the North Sea. It was extremely windy on the coast, which was evidently good for kiteboarding. There were many, many kiteboarders out there and it was fun to watch! ​

​We walked along the beach and did a quick step into the sea — it was chilly. We drove through Zandvoort and then stopped at a pannekoeken house on the way back. We had to wait way too long for our food, but pannekoeken is worth the wait! 

At the end of the day, we drove by Opa’s childhood home and then to Oma’s childhood home. Kathryn has heard stories about their families and hopefully it will have a little more meaning now that she can picture the setting.

As I read this over, it seems like a rather dry summary of a very full day. I think I’ll have more to say after the trip is over. πŸ™‚

TDY

I feel like I need to be a little opaque in this post and avoid certain keywords that would draw in a search. I don’t have anything of particular interest to share, but it’s best to be cautious (though not overly dramatic). 

I had the opportunity to take a business trip (or TDY in military terms) to the hq with my new colleagues earlier this week. It was a bit awe inspiring to be in a place where world representatives come to discuss and decide international affairs. I evidentially just missed crossing paths with the US Sec of St, who was there to meet with the Sec Gen. My colleague sat in the SG’s chair — in that room you see in news clips and I sat at the desk (a gift of France) of a notable past SG. 😬

It was interesting to learn how an organization that depends so much on the exchange of information, manages that information very intentionally. Quite impressive! We met archivists who are working to preserve the historical record of this important organization. The archival program is very young (1999), however, and they have much to do to sort of catch up to where they should be in terms of administrative control of their records. Preparations for a move to a new building is driving much of the work at this time.

I didn’t get to the very heart of the city to see the grand square with it’s architectural jewels, but I did see a bit of downtown. We took a tram and had dinner at a gourmet burger place, which lived up to it’s reputation. I didn’t think too much about recent events in this city until I saw some army trucks and a soldier on patrol. I wasn’t fearful, just sad — sad that one of greatest cities in the world has been scarred by terror.

We travelled south to another version of hq the second day of our trip. This one was less impressive — a dismal example of prefab architecture and a sad state of archival neglect. Just saying it like it is. πŸ˜• There are some recent hires who are doing a remarkable job of making improvements — however slowly. We didn’t get to meet an long term employee who single handedly saved and recorded vital history  for many years against opposition. Kudos. πŸ€—

We were supposed to have a meeting in the bunker, but only got so far underground when access was denied because we weren’t cleared in advance. Badges with secret clearance were evidently not sufficient. Oh well. The TDY was a good bonding opportunity for our newly formed team regardless of whether all the purposes of our trip were realized!

this week’s adventures

Our week started with a trip to Maastricht to visit an international church that meets at the StayOkay (an int’l hostel). It was pretty laid back (the service started 12 min late), the music was good and the people were . . . youthful . . . and very nice. They were mostly college students and we were probably the oldest couple there. 😦 We met a young family from Rhode Island and Dick made a possible work contact. After the service, we walked along some of the old fortifications and went into a little museum that’s located in one of the towers. Maastricht has a fascinating history; I’ll have to find an English translation of it to get more details. We also did some shopping. Dick bought a really nice, stylish leather jacket to replace his dorky old jacket. πŸ˜„ 

Dick looked at a couple more cars this week and, after much deliberation, settled on a 2000 318i BMW with low mileage. We would never drive a BMW in the States and it would be rare to find one of this vintage in this condition anyway. I’ll be out of the country on Monday and Tuesday (tell you about it when I get back!), so we have to wait until Wednesday to transfer ownership. A lot of used goods are sold among personnel at JFCBS, GK and Schinnen, especially as people come and go from their posts.

The rain abated for a couple of days this week and we had a hot sunny day on Thursday. I refused to complain about the heat even when I rode a bus with no AC and it was at least 100 degrees.πŸ˜“ There was an intense thunderstorm Thursday night with the most spectacular lightning I’ve ever seen. 🌩⚑️It was nonstop flashes of light for a long time. There was hail and strong winds with this storm as well. Trees were down along and across my bike route the next morning. 

We went into Heerlen for dinner Friday night. Our pick was Ronnie’s Ribs — a restaurant striving to serve American food. Dick ordered the all you can eat bbq ribs and I ordered the “Nashville” burger. The ribs got rave reviews, the burger was pretty good and the frites were excellent. Lekker! We chatted with Ronnie (retired Dutch Air Force) a bit and he said the bbq sauce was an American friend’s recipe. 

And now for today’s adventure. We decided to bike into Sittard to get some things at the Markt. Dick mapped out a route on Google that paralleled the main road and would take us through some fields. Sounded great. The first leg was through a picturesque small town and past a castle that’s now a hotel/restaurant. Lovely! We then turned off onto a ‘bike path’. So, it did look like a bike path at first since it was wide and paved, but then it became gravel . . . and it narrowed . . . and it got muddy. The path then narrowed into what us country folks call a COW PATH. City bikes do not belong on cow paths! Did I mention that we’ve had a lot of rain? This was a MUDDY cow path. We had to dismount the bikes and carefully walk around the mud. Oh and I was wearing flats — not ideal footwear for this journey. A couple of mountain bikers passed us, gleefully riding through the mud. I imagine these guys had quite a laugh over beers later as they recounted the sight of ridiculous Americans sloggying city bikes through the fields. πŸ˜› It WAS ridiculous, but it was also amazing. That muddy cow path led us through fields of corn, barley, wheat and potato fields in full bloom. What a beautiful sight!


We finally came to what I would describe as a tractor road. We were deciding which way to turn when a nice couple came hiking up the opposite path. They gave us their advise (wife contradicting husband) and we headed off to find some pavement. When Dick says, “it’s just a little further”, it reminds me of past bike trips when he said, “this is the last hill” and then we climbed three more hills to get home. In this instance, he was pretty accurate and we shortly hit town streets

The forecast said that the rain would come later in the afternoon around 3pm. We projected that we could get to town and back before the showers came. It started to rain as we entered the Markt around 12:30. Okay no problem, a perfect excuse to take a lunch break at a cafe on the Markt. I had an uitsmijter — yum! After our nice lunch, the rain let up and we took advantage of the lull to head back home — this time along the main road. The trick about this route is that it involves biking up a long hill.β›° It reminded me a little of LaFayette, NY! When we have our road bikes, this hill will be less intimidating 🚡 and I won’t have to get off to walk the bike. We were in the home stretch when the rain started again and we managed to get just a little damp. 

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